Common furnace problems we fix
No heat at all is most often an igniter, flame sensor, pressure switch or a tripped limit. Runs but blows cold usually points to ignition failure or a gas supply problem. Short cycling, turning on and off every few minutes, is typically a dirty filter, a blocked vent, an overheating limit or an oversized furnace. Loud bangs or rattles can be delayed ignition or a loose blower. Water around the furnace on a high-efficiency unit means a clogged condensate line or a failed trap.
Most of these are one-visit repairs with parts we carry. Tell us the symptom when you book and we'll bring the likely part.
Repair or replace?
Our rule of thumb: if the furnace is under 12 years old and the repair is a normal wear part, repair it. If it is 15 years or older and the repair is a major component (heat exchanger, blower motor, control board), the money is usually better spent on a new high-efficiency furnace that cuts your gas bill by 20 to 30 percent and comes with a full warranty. We'll give you both numbers and let you decide. A cracked heat exchanger is the one exception: that furnace has to be shut down for safety, and we will tell you plainly.
What a service call costs
We charge a flat diagnostic fee to come out, find the problem and give you a written price for the fix. If you approve the repair, the diagnostic fee comes off the bill. Common repairs like igniters, flame sensors and capacitors are typically in the low hundreds; blower motors and control boards are more. After-hours emergency calls carry a premium, which we tell you about on the phone before dispatching anyone.
